Kite Aerial Photography
Picture
by Peter McCulloch
Nothing terribly innovative here, a standard double U rig, the basic design
is covered in the excellent resources in www.kiteaerialphotography.net
and numerous other places on the Web and The Aerial
Eye. What I've attempted to
do here is detail aspects of the construction that are either novel, or poorly
covered elsewhere. There is also an image taken by the rig
on
this page, and a Gallery of images
taken in 2003, when the rig flew.
As well as the rig you also need some ground
equipment, a kite, a suspension
system, and the ability to stay cool when behaving strangely in public.
The Rig:
- Nikon 775 2Mpixel camera. This was chosen because of its availability :-),
its low weight, good optics, and features including auto power-down,
re-activated by pressing the shutter, and video output.
- Micron build your own
model RC receiver. Chosen for low cost and the fun of
making it myself. They also have kits ideal for making into a KAP
transmitter, everything you need without the joysticks and case, just what
the KAPer ordered!
- VideoLynx micro TV transmitter. Chosen because I am a radio amateur and
this route was recommended on other web-sites as the best for a good strong
picture. This transmitter is completely sealed which also made it good for
KAP. Aerial is a ¼ wave radiator and ground plane connected directly to the
transmitter.
- Batteries: 5x NiMH 3/4 AAA from Strikalite, 9g each, 350mA/H.
For windy days 5x NiMH AAA from Strikalite,
13g each, 700mA/H. Alternate emergency batteries 4x AAA Alkaline, 13g each plus holder.
- Tilt uses a standard servo, Pan uses a standard servo with the feedback
pot mounted externally via 4:1 gear reduction. Since the transmitter is
custom designed and could be adjusted, there was no issue with servo travel
only being 80o. In fact the tilt servo moves 100o
giving a small overshoot, allowing you to look "up". Control of the shutter uses a micro servo
with a string from the servo near the base of the camera up and over the
shutter button, The zoom is also controlled with a micro servo and
paddle located beside the zoom buttons. I did take the Nikon apart to look at
electronically activating the shutter and zoom, but the camera inside was far to
"busy" for me to attempt this. I also investigated controlling the
camera via USB, but this was only available on the heavier Nikon 885. I
couldn't find any pages where the USB had been cracked by hackers but I'm
still convinced the functionality is there, just disabled. Anyone work for
Nikon reading this?
- Rig weight 310g (11oz). Total laden weight: rig, camera, memory
card, and batteries is 550g (1lb 3½oz)
The Good Bits:
- Centre of Gravity: There didn't appear
to be good web coverage about this so read this page for an exposé on
keeping your balance!
- Video Switch: To save power (and weight) the
video downlink is disabled when the camera is in sleep-mode, this page tells
you how.
- Additionally
drawings of the construction are contained in this 6 page document.
The Bad Bits:
The experiences I learned whilst building the rig are detailed here (There
are further Learnings that were made during the first
year I flew the rig):
- The Nikon 775 (along with much consumer electronics) generates a lot of
electrical noise. Accessory leads contain ferrite rings to try to cut this
interference out. Unfortunately to save weight I cut out the ferrite
rings:-). By experimenting I re-instated the ferrites that were "making
a difference". I also added a ferrite to the supply for the Downlink
transmitter to stop it interfering with the Servo receiver. There is a fuller
explanation of how to handle Electro-magnetic Compatibility
(EMC) issues.
- On first flight the connection between the picavet and rig worked loose.
This can be very dangerous and lead to the camera being dropped. Fortunately
a small safety pin through a hole in the shaft stopped the connection coming
completely loose! A small plastic block was glued to the picavet to prevent
it rotating by locking it against the M4 nylock nut the wing-nut bears
against.
- The Casio TV used for the video downlink is difficult to see in sunlight.
A black plastic hood was made for the screen from a small plastic box, and
fixed with elastic bands.
- To avoid picture blur you need to get the shutter speed up. Most digital
cameras are ASA100 equivalent, and this doesn't help. I run the Nikon 775 in
PORTRAIT mode, which ensures
minimum F stop and highest shutter speed, at the expense of having the focus
motor "hunting" all the time, which reduces battery time. Even
with that the shutter speed can be as low as 1/125 which is marginal. >=1/500 is ideal. The best digital camera for KAP doesn't exist
currently since high resolution, high sensitivity, sensors are currently
only used on top of the range, heavy SLR
type camera bodies.
The Results:

Avon Aqueduct, Union Canal, near Linlithgow from Muiravonside Country Park.
Scotland's longest aqueduct.
The original is a stitch of 2 x 2Mpixel images, 1st
February 2003.
After a Summer of operating this rig I had learned some
lessons!